Motes Orchids 10/6/17 Motes Orchids 10/6/17

October in Your Orchid Collection

Average high: 85.4
Average low: 72.2
Average mean: 78.8
Average rainfall: 6.19"

October is a month of change in South Florida. If the Romans had lived here where we do, they would have named this month for their two faced god Janus. Usually around the middle of the month, and certainly by the end of the month, the first strong cold front pushes into South Florida bringing to a close the monolithic heat and damp of summer and ushering in weather as most of the continent knows it, alternating periods of warmer and cooler. Although warm temperatures will persist for another month or so until the technical end of the hurricane season, the tropics are in retreat and the temperate zone in the ascendancy. Each successive cold front foreshadowed by ever lessening rain storms will progressively cool our temperatures and dry our air. But days are shortening too, providing less hours of sunlight to heat the air and slowing the drying process. Nights are longer and cooler which produces the same effect, slower drying. Now we must start to move into the consciousness of winter and take greater care to insure that our plants are thoroughly dry before we water them again. The shorter days of October dictate that we rise even earlier to water if necessary. Each extra hour of daylight is to be cherished by us as well as our plants.
   Most of our orchids are well aware of this sea change. The shortening days of late summer have told many genera to finish their growth and prepare to rest. We need to listen too. And look! The last smallest leaves of these highly seasonal plants will have unfolded at the tips of their new growths telling us that their growth cycle is finished for this year. Himalayan dendrobiums of the nobile type and of the section Callista (D. aggregatum et al.) now begin their five months of carefree existence in South Florida. They should be put in a bright spot and given no more water and above all, no more fertilizer until after they have bloomed in Spring. Catasetums, mormodes, Cycnoches, calanthes and other deciduous types should be treated the same way. Whatever moisture nature provides in the increasingly heavy dew and the passing rains that usher in most cold fronts will be adequate for these plants whose native environment is a seasonally monsoon one like ours. Benign neglect suits these genera just fine and what a relief to the conscience of the ever busy orchidist! The truly devoted will group these genera together, preferably at the edge of the growing area and high up where they will receive the maximum of light and air circulation. Grouped thus, the chance of an accidental watering of these while taking care of the more thirsty genera is minimized. Another strategy is to tip the pots of these dormant genera on their sides thus eliminating much natural rainfall and avoiding a misdirected hose spray. Some growers even remove plants that have finished both growing and flowering from their pots entirely. When new growth begins in the Spring they will receive a fresh start in new medium.
   Many cattleyas, laelias, oncidiums and phalaenopsis-type dendrobiums will be finishing their growths and should be hardened off with reduced water and fertilizer but not the Spartan regime of the deciduous type. Lower nitrogen fertilizer applied at a lower rate and with less frequency will make these genera happy and prevent them from breaking into unwanted off-season growth that frequently hampers flowering as well. Many growers tend to use higher phosphorus, lower nitrogen fertilizers of the “Bloom Booster” type during the cooler weather. But less frequent applications of the recommended 15-5-15 is a better strategy. These applications should be spaced further apart as well, at ten to twelve day intervals. Less frequent watering will also do for these genera. When the frontal rains pass through, check to see that the pots are thoroughly wet by giving them the “heft” test and if they are not heavy enough “top them up.” Let them dry ‘hard’ before watering again. In cool weather especially, less is more.
   Monopodial orchids like Vanda and Phalaenopsis which want to grow continuously, feel the change too. The broad swing of day to night temperature stimulates flower spike initiation in these genera. You can spur them on to greater excitement by giving them a shot of high Phosphorus ‘Bloom Booster’ fertilizer just before or just after the sudden drop in night temperatures precipitated by the passing of a cold front. For most of the year “Bloom Booster” fertilizer appears to be in fact “Bloom Blocker” but (perhaps from faith rather than science) high phosphorus seems to have the desired effect (perhaps from shock) when the first cold snaps are also halting vegetative growth. We like Miller’s Solugro (12-48-8) because it contains none of the ugly blue flower, clothes and hand staining dye. Other brands (with or without dye) are equally effective. Look for a very high middle number and a relatively low first number or ask at your garden center for a ‘starter solution’ which is the moniker for these fertilizers when used in planting out vegetable or annual seedlings. Because the nitrogen level is lower, you can use a full tablespoon of these or more, per gallon.
   Cooler weather calls our attention to our plants’ needs for trace elements. Chief among these is magnesium, often described as the ‘major’ minor element. Magnesium deficiency shows up in orchids as a reddening of the foliage particularly when the plant is stressed. This color change is frequently attributed to cold as it occurs following spells of cooler weather. This observation is the fallacy of post hoc, ergo propter hoc; cold is merely the efficient cause: the material cause is lack of magnesium. Hopefully the new fertilizer regimen outlined in the July chapter will minimize or eliminate the reddening by keeping the magnesium level up in the plants. But... Epsom salts (MgS) is the best and most readily available source of magnesium. This can be applied with Potassium Nitrate (KNO4) at the rate of one tablespoon each per gallon. Potassium Nitrate has the formula 14-0-44. The missing number in the middle is Phosphorus. In combination with our highly alkaline water phosphorus tends to react with magnesium and the other metals of the trace element group. Never apply magnesium and the other trace elements in combination with fertilizers containing phosphorus. A general purpose trace element mixture can be added to the mix of magnesium sulfate and potassium nitrate at the rate recommended on the label.. (Concentrations vary). Goodbye red, Hello green!

Motes Orchids 9/23/17 Motes Orchids 9/23/17

Treasures from the Storm

It's an ill wind that blows no one any good. Minor hurricanes are still a major nuisance but small blessing can nonetheless flow to South Florida orchidists in the enforced pruning of our trees which will bring cherished light to our orchids. The prunings themselves are a major resource for the clever orchidists. The streets of South Florida are typically lined with a virtually inexhaustible lode of great orchid mounting material in the wake of minor hurricanes. All that is needed is the energy to cut and haul the appropriate branches that will supply years of great orchid mounts. With such an abundant (dare I say windfall?) one can even be quite picky. The savant orchidist should select his material with an eye to the best suited and the most appealing. Three species stand out. First, the golden trumpet (Tabebuia argentea or caribae) whose cork like bark is ideal for most orchid genera is always the first to fall and particularly abundant in roadside plantings.

Live oak (Quercus virginiana),a favorite host of our native epiphytes, is also highly favored by epiphytic orchids in general and dendrobiums in particular. It is, of course, of the very same genus as cork itself and the wood is highly durable.

Next among the commonly fallen and desirable is button wood (Conocarpus erecta) both green and silver, again a favored host of native epiphytes. These branches is "driftwood" on the hoof. It is the roots of this species that become the "driftwood" of orchid culture. The branches are great mounts too.

Other species such as bottle brush (Callistemon) are good but the three common storm victims will provide more than enough of the very best mounts. Look for branches that are forked or twisted or that have other distinctive turns that will add character to the finished mounts.

Try to imagine the plant situated on the branch. A small chain saw makes short work of these branches, quickly rendering them into raw works of art. A well sharpened double set hand pruning saw will do fine. Now would be a good time to acquire these tools if needed before they are inevitable truly needed in the aftermath of a major hurricane. When a "minor" storm has passed, we can count our blessings and collect the orchid manna falling from heaven.

Motes Orchids 9/12/17 Motes Orchids 9/12/17

Recovering from a hurricane

Post storm activity is important also. First, be prepared to quickly replace shade either on the structure itself or by jury-rigging shade cloth until the structure can be rebuilt. The plants themselves will have been severely stunned, bruised or nicked by buffeting winds. Often the plants will have been dark and wet for many, many hours. These conditions are the most highly conducive for fungal and bacterial development. While the plants are still wet they can be sprayed with a tertiary ammonia product Physan, Consan, or Greenshield (pool algicide contains the same chemical). This has the advantage of blending with the water on the plants to provide some immediate protection. Once the plants are dry again, they can be sprayed with a broad spectrum fungicide/bactericide. Cupric hydroxide (Kocide, Champion) mixed with Mancozeb (Manzate, Dithane M45) at 1 tbs per gallon of each should do a good job. Again, a spreader sticker is highly desirable here. The strategy for all the next few weeks post storm is to keep the plants as dry as possible (most will be moving toward more dormant states in September and October, in any case). Close monitoring for disease development and excising damaged tissue as disease develops are essential. This should be done with a clean instrument that is disinfected between cuts, preferably with a supersaturated solution of tri-sodium phosphate , Clorox, pool algicide or by flaming the cutting edge. Much wet weather can still be forth-coming after a hurricane and disease control and prevention will be a long term task post storm. We all hope that none of us ever again need to know these things we old Florida hands have learned across the years, but hurricanes are a price of living in paradise. The wise children make preparations early for all the other storm needs; buying supplies, filling gas tanks, trimming trees, removing debris so that at the eleventh hour all efforts can be concentrated on what is truly important; protecting our orchids and other equally beloved family.

Treating Storm Damaged Plants

Hurricane or even tropical force winds are not kind to vegetation. Orchids that have weathered the storm in our gardens are very likely to have sustained some damage. Frequently leaves or stems are broken. Even more frequently the plants have been scraped by rubbing against themselves or some object in the buffeting winds. Wind blown debris can also cut or scrape exposed plants. Careful examination of those plants which could not be brought in out of the storm will usually reveal numerous cuts, scrapes and bruises, particularly on leaf margins. These wounds are unfortunately the potential points of entry for bacterial and fungal infection. Our plants need help in warding off these potential problems. As with all else in good orchid management the first defense is to be sure to dry the plants as thoroughly as possible. After a storm one should not even think of watering orchids. The rains of the storm will have been more than enough, if not too much. Most sympodial orchids are at the end of their growth cycles and are slowing down to a rate requiring less water. Vandas and Phalaenopsis are luxuriating in the extra heavy humidity (that the air conditioned populous loves to hate) and hence require a good deal less water as well. Water such monopodial orchids only when a rare few days pass without any rain. Drying storm-damaged orchids will allow those nicks and scratches to heal to a naturally resistant toughness. Often the weather of September and October is not kind enough (even when we have already suffered) to permit sufficient drying to cure the ravages of the storm. The persistent damp characteristic of late summer usually dictates more active intervention. Painting wounded spots with fungicide can often prevent infections. Many growers adverse to chemicals use ground cinnamon for this purpose. A bolder and surer treatment is a combination of equal parts cupric hydroxide (Kocide) and mancozeb (Manzate or Dithane M45). This should be made into a slurry and painted on wounded places.

Never, never, apply chemicals as a dust. The potential to inhale pure forms of agricultural chemicals is too, too, dangerous. Indeed, it is recommended that when handling chemicals to make a slurry, a respirator or paint mask be worn to avoid inhaling the air borne particles. Rubber or vinyl gloves are advised when actually applying this mixture. Cupric hydroxide and mancozeb can also be applied as a spray at the rate of one tablespoon each per gallon of water. Spraying the entire collection will go a long way toward preventing isolated problems from becoming epidemic. If the weather is so unremittingly wet that spray cannot be applied, a quaternary ammonium product (Physan, etc. or pool algicide) can be sprayed as recommended elsewhere. Luckily when most hurricanes have struck, the end of October is just days away, bringing dry air to relieve both our plants and our rain-weary souls.

Motes Orchids 9/4/17 Motes Orchids 9/4/17

Hurricane Orchid Prep

With Irma threatening, we are republishing our advice for hurricane prep.

When a hurricane is looming one should run all the orchids as dry as possible to reduce the threat of fungus and bacteria. But contra-intuitively, just before the storm strikes one should saturate the orchids to the max. Now is the time to do that [Note: this piece was originally published the day before Matthew hit, so, water heavily the day before the hurricane makes landfall]. First, because we want the plants to be as heavy as possible to help prevent them being blown away or about. Second, because if one's water source is a well, electricity for the pump may be off for days or even weeks. Thoroughly watered plants will be much happier should this occur. Even if you are able to bring all your collection inside, water them thoroughly with two to three applications spaced a few minutes apart. They will be perfectly happy for a day or two without water and we will all have enough mess to deal with without watering orchids in the house.

Remember, wind velocity increases exponentially as height increases. Get your plants as close to the ground as possible but off the ground as flooding may saturate them with fungus and bacteria. Usually it is not wise to attempt to cover them with a tarp or shade cloth as the whipping of the cloth by the wind likely will cause more harm than the wind itself.

If you are growing under shade cloth, the cloth should be furled tightly to protect it. Bright burning sun is typical in the wake of a hurricane and shade will be invaluable If you are growing under trees be prepared for the possibility that the protective canopy will be destroyed. Have a plan to protect your plants from sun burn.

Good luck and please feel free to share this information with whomever may benefit from it.